As I write this, we are on storm number six in this winter of my meteorological discontent, and with its sleet, ice, slush, and snow, two things have proven true: first, California is starting to look very, very good to me. And second, what appeared to have been just happenstance is in fact my own personal midwinter trend: in spite of my deep, unabashed love of all things Asian, when the temperature dips, I return to cooking the Mediterranean foods I cherish, but, for most of the year, tend not to prepare.