I guess it’s that time again: the first USDA recall of 2009 focuses on a true, blue pantry product–Bacon Toppings, better known in the American culinary lexicon as Bacon Bits (as opposed to Bacos, which were neither animal, vegetable, nor mineral). It seems that Golden Crisp Applewood Smoked Precooked Bacon Toppings and John Morrell Applewood Smoked Precooked Bacon Toppings have been recalled because of Listeria, which is characterized by high fever, neck stiffness, severe headache, and nausea. This is exactly how I felt after being back at work yesterday.

I’m not sure why I had a childhood-long love affair with Bacon Bits of all sorts, but I did. They showed up everywhere in our house, for some reason: on baked potatoes, in scrambled eggs, tossed with fettucine. Granted, this was the 1970s and we did what was easy. Why make actual bacon when you could just reach into a jar for a handful of porcine goodness? The only problem of course is that there was nothing even remotely porcine about it or for that matter, in it. 
Bacon Bits/Toppings falls (fall?) into the category of inexpensive pantry ingredient that theoretically could work on virtually anything: on pasta, in soup (think butternut squash), on salads (as evidenced by the proliferation of the Bacon Bits/Toppings trough at the salad bar at Cookie’s Steak House, Huntington Long Island, circa 1971). You name the dish and you can probably use Bacon Bits/Toppings to give it a little blast of salty flavor and, most likely, Red Dye 40. Better still? If you go the Bacos Brand, you can probably eat them if you’re or a vegetarian, or even a vegan! Why? Because they contain nothing in the way of meat or dairy. Whatosever. 
I can’t speak for John Morrell Applewood Smoked Precooked Bacon Toppings or Golden Crisp Applewood Smoked Precooked Bacon Toppings because it appears to be impossible to find the ingredients list for these products anywhere on the web. The manufacturer, Patrick Cudahy, Inc., does offer this bacon bit of information on its website, though:
Well, apparently not so much. 
I’m not going to get into my long litany of why it’s so much easier, better for you, and ultimately more thrifty to make your own pantry ingredients whenever you can (that’s for another post). I will say, though, that if you love your Bacon Bits the way I used to, and you absolutely have to have them on hand, just make your own. Most of us non-vegetarians probably have half a slab of bacon floating around the freezer someplace, coming unwrapped. If you do, follow these remedial cooking instructions; the result will last, refrigerated in a tightly-sealed container, for four days, tops. Why only four? Because your Bacon Bits are made from BACON. That’s B-A-C-O-N. As in M-E-A-T. As in P-E-R-I-S-H-A-B-L-E. Meat is not meant to have an extended shelf life, or to live in your pantry forever. If it claims it can, don’t go near it. 
To repeat: Bacon is meat. Smoked, sure. But still. It’s always better to be safe than to take a stroll down Listeria Lane. 

Homemade Listeria-Free Bacon Bits
Makes about 1 cup
6-8 rashers of bacon, preferably of decent quality
2 paper towel sheets
1 Mason jar
1. Place the bacon in room temperature cast iron pan. Place over medium high heat and cook until very crispy, turning frequently.
2. Remove the bacon to a plate covered with paper towels. Pour off the bacon fat into an empty coffee can (if you’re going to save it). 
3. Break the bacon into small pieces, and place between two fresh paper towels on a cutting board. Roll over them several times with a rolling pin, and deposit the bits into a mason jar. Refrigerate for up to 4 days. 

Pantry as Gold Mine

January 4, 2009 · 1 comment


I don’t care how much money you have, or how much you don’t.

Every single wise cook that I have ever known has been able to make what might otherwise be a boring, cheap, and gastronomically flaccid meal (or even a boring, expensive one. Like broiled steak. Or broiled sole, like your grandmother used to make.) stand up straight and do jumping jacks precisely because of one thing: a smartly stocked pantry. 
The thing is, like everything that we know we’re supposed to do but don’t (eat more fiber, drink less wine, drop 20 pounds, etc), the act of stocking a pantry so that everything gets used in ways that make okay meals fabulous ends up being a daunting task for all but the most anal-retentive among us.
Nevertheless, it pays to be wonkish about your pantry, especially if you’re trying to save money. It’s important to know what simple, inexpensive pantry items will add huge flavor to inexpensive dishes quickly and easily. Example: you buy a pound of London Broil on sale, split it into four portions, freeze two, and then slice the remaining two into very thin slivers. You drizzle it with soy sauce, a thin disc of ginger (diced), lime juice, a dash of chili oil, throw it into a hot pan, and then toss it with rice noodles and a curly tangle of fresh watercress.
Now, scroll back to where you sliced the beef. Pretend you have no soy, no ginger, no lime juice, no chili oil, no noodles, no watercress. What do you have?
Flaccid beef on a plate. And after you eat it, you’ll still be hungry. 
So, let’s start here. Think of your pantry as your closet, and your go-to foundation ingredients as your little black dress. What are the foundation ingredients in my pantry, right now, that enable me to take a $5 pork butt (more on that tomorrow) from good to great, and give me leftovers tasty enough to re-purpose and serve at a small dinner party? 
Sriracha sauce
Fish sauce
Maggi (odd, but Andrea Nguyen turned me onto it and used in very small doses, it’s changed my life)
Balsamic vinegar
Soy sauce
Chicken or vegetable stock
Canned tomatoes
Eggs
Arborio rice
Basmati rice
Dried beans (garbanzos, white beans, black beans)
Lentils
Pasta (wide cut, tubular, Soba, and rice sticks)
Limes
Lemons
Ginger
Garlic
Jalapenos
Kosher salt
Black peppercorns
Red pepper flakes
Looking at this long list, I should be clear: you can buy it all at a high end market and pay through the nose. Or you can head to your local ethnic market and buy it for a fraction. Case in point:
Sriracha at suburban grocery store in Connecticut :$4.79
Sriracha at ethnic supermarket in New Haven, Connecticut: $1.89
Fill your pantry with these items, and with the addition of a few other inexpensive ingredients, you’ll be able to make amazing meals without breaking the bank.
What’s in your pantry that you can’t live without? 
indiebound

 

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