For what seems to be the fifth day in a row, it’s snowing, the plows aren’t even out yet, and it’s too frigid and windy to walk. And why, exactly, would anyone even consider walking in this weather? Well, there are some of us who like the cold, like my grandmother, who would march around Queens in knee-deep snow with a smile on her face and a song in her heart. There are others who are gluttons for punishment, like the unsmiling, miserable-looking triathlete lady who lives in my neighborhood and runs like she’s being chased by a snarling pitbull, regardless of weather. And there are still others who have to walk, daily, whether we really want to or not. Like me. This prescription–this gift–which can neither be approved nor disapproved of by my health insurance provider, is how I ended 2009.
Goodbye, foul decade; don’t let the door hit you in the ass on the way out.
It’s been quite a bang-up ten years, hasn’t it? And not just for me. Almost everyone I’ve spoken to seems to have experienced a lengthy period of exceptionally bad karma since 2000. Let’s start first with the arrival of Dubya. Now, it matters not one iota if you’re a Republican or a Democrat, a Liberal or a Conservative: we could have done better than supposedly electing a man who ultimately couldn’t watch television and eat a pretzel at the same time. Then came 2001, the attacks on the World Trade Center and the Pentagon, and the deaths in Pennsylvania of an entire plane-load of people who were merely trying to get from point A to point B. The decade also brought us Katherine Harris and hanging chads; Mad Cow Disease and anthrax; the space shuttle Columbia, and Enron; Monsanto running roughshod over virtually every farmer in the nation; Abu Ghraib and Beslan; an Asian tsunami, Scooter Libby, and Alberto Gonzalez; Benazir Bhutto, Tom DeLay, Randy Cunningham, Harriet Miers, and, just when we thought things couldn’t get much worse, Hurricane Katrina, the destruction of an American city, and Heckuva Job, Brownie.
I could go on, and so could you. And that’s just the public stuff.
But what does this have to do with walking in the snow as a prescription, and the very last thing I received in 2009? Because it was the exclamation point at the end of my personal decade of ennui; it was like the gods were chuckling and blowing me a Bronx cheer. Apparently, I have spent so much time over the last ten years sitting on my rear reading about all of these events, that my body has sort of settled, like a building, and my genetic makeup came calling. High blood pressure? Check. High cholesterol? Check. Weight gain? Check. Add to this my line of work, and I became the unwitting patron lady bountiful of the health insurance industry, not to mention my local pharmacy. Something’s not right here.
Now that I’ve become a bit more conscious of the fact that I spend days–on end–either sitting on my ass and watching life unfold, or standing in the kitchen and cooking food that I eat too much of, I was a bit shocked when Susan and I had our almost-annual New Year’s Day open house pot luck for our neighbors: we opened up the dining room table as far as it could go, and by noon, it was laden with the foods that I would usually find myself drawn to like a hysterical hyena. Macaroni and cheese. A small ham that we’d glazed with rhubarb compote. Bagels. Chips. And I admit to noshing on them; actually, in truth, I was grazing in a distinctly sort of bovine manner, along with my beloved neighbors. Everyone stood over a particular bowl or dish, scooped up a portion, and moved a little bit to the right. Rinse and repeat, and around and around we went, mindlessly. After a small piece of ham, I was full; the macaroni and cheese beckoned and I answered. After a small dollop of cheesy goodness, I was staggering–I actually felt drunk and a little bit lightheaded–but I also wanted more. My genes–those hateful little bastards–were shouting at me from the inside: go ahead, do it. Screw the quinoa. The decade has been pure crap. This will make you feel better. You can always take a nap.
So, the question for me now is, can I turn to comfort foods that will actually, heaven forbid, provide me with pleasure as well as healthy sustenance? Is there such a beast? Are they mutually exclusive? Do they have to be? There’s a lot to be said for portion size, for sure; but will more nutritious foods and things that are one step away from the earth rather than refined to hell and back provide me with the same sort of endorphin rush that, say, cheesy potatoes will? Maybe; I intend to find out.
The decade stank, and it ended with my learning that my heart is no longer a happy camper. But looking back, it had some big upside; maybe it’s all in how you look at it. I am finally, legally married in two states. The financial collapse pushed me, and many others, to realize that simple living is better living, and that consumerism isn’t necessarily a desirable virtue; and a bad generic version of a pill I take every day sent me to a cardiologist, who discovered an underlying disease that I otherwise would never have found, and she probably saved my life.
That alone is worth a walk in a snowstorm.
Quinoa and Kale with Poached Eggs
I love quinoa, but it can sometimes take on a distinctive and often annoying graininess that benefits from the addition of another texture. I choose kale, for its meaty, robust quality, and the fact that it holds up well everywhere from the steamer to the saute pan. I have also long been a fan of topping everything and anything with a perfectly prepared poached egg; there’s virtually nothing like it for texture and flavor, and if you’re lucky enough to have a neighbor who raises chickens, you’ll never eat anything less than a fresh egg (or at least an honestly organic one) ever again. I now limit myself to one, but if your cholesterol can stand it, have two; if there is any quinoa left over, mix it with an egg or two, form into patties, chill, and sear in a cast iron pan until brown. These can be chilled down and frozen for up to a month, making the whole ordeal deliciously frugal in the extreme.
This recipe can be altered any number of ways: use bulgur instead of quinoa; top the egg with a few shavings of sheep’s milk cheese, a sprinkling of crisply sauteed shallots, or a drizzle of Sriracha. It can also be served atop a slice of toasted, country-style bread that’s been rubbed with garlic and drizzled with olive oil. Add a small ladle of the pot liquor for good measure.
Serves 2
1 cup water, lightly salted
1 cup quinoa, rinsed well
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 small onion, peeled and diced (about 1/2 cup)
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1 small bunch red kale, cleaned and chopped
1/4 cup water
2 poached eggs
salt and pepper, to taste
extra virgin olive oil, for drizzling
1. In a medium saucepan, bring water to a boil, and add the quinoa. Cover, reduce heat to a simmer, and cook for 5 minutes. Remove from heat, and let stand, covered. And don’t peek.
2. In a deep, medium skillet set over medium heat, warm the oil until rippling. Add the onion and garlic, and saute until tender, taking care not to burn them. Add the kale and the water, combine well with the onion and garlic, and continue to cook, covered, until the kale is tender, about 8-10 minutes. Fluff the quinoa with a fork.
3. Fold the quinoa together with the kale, and serve warm in shallow bowls, topped with 1 poached egg each. Season to taste with salt and pepper and a drizzle of good quality extra virgin olive oil.

Well, not exactly that kind of hearty. Not the posole stew with braised pork belly kind of hearty. Or the glazed goose with sweet and sour red cabbage and spaetzle sort of hearty.
That’s not what I’m talking about.
First: Apologies for the mysterious and sudden disappearance. I’d like very much to be able to attribute it to the craziness of the season, the parties, the cleaning in preparation for Christmas guests, the endless shopping, the crowds, the decorating of the tree, the dinner planning, the latke making. But I can’t.
The short version: a few weeks ago, I had my annual physical. Everything was peachy, except for my blood pressure and my EKG. We know about my blood pressure, so this isn’t much of a surprise. People in their mid-40s who write about and work with food often have this issue. But my EKG? Off we went to a cardiologist. I passed some tests. I failed some others. I was poked and prodded to within an inch of my life. Heads have been scratched. Never mind my line of work, my doctor tells me; my genes stink. Scary words have been thrown around. My brain has soared and swooped to stratospheric levels of silent, middle-of-the-night hysteria, bombarded repeatedly by a little gremlin shouting What Ifs in my left ear, and Remember Laurie Colwin in my right. It’s been totally exhausting, and so I’ve done what most Cancerians do at times like this: I crawled under a rock.
And now I’ve come out.
I still know very little except for the fact that I’ve had what they call a “come to Jesus moment” which I guess is a little odd for a Jew with Buddhist leanings. A better translation: I’ve been warned that I’d better stop with the prefabricated stress. I can only control what I can control. Everything else is totally and completely meaningless and impermanent. I have a lot of people to cook with and to break bread with. I have a loving partner and a kind and funny dog and wonderful friends and family and very small cousins whose weddings I must dance at. In twenty or thirty years.
“You also have to stop with the food,” someone said to me. “You probably eat huge amounts of very fatty things, every day. After all, Poor Man’s Feast extols the virtues of eating vast quantities cheaply.”
Screw stress; I was incensed when this person uttered these words. I rose up like Sholom Aleichem‘s Fruma Sarah and my muscles popped out of my shirt sleeves like Lou Ferrigno.
Fruma Sarah rises up from the grave and scares the crap out of Tevye, c. 1971.
Did this person ever read this blog? Okay, sure–I’ve written articles about thirty things to do with leftover pork, or how to make six dinners from a three pound chicken. But that’s not what PMF is really about. PMF is about understanding that if you’ve got nothing but a bowl of beans and a slab of bread sitting in front of you, it can still be a feast. It’s about taste, for sure. But it’s also experiential. It’s about making each meal–each drop of soup and crumb of cake–somehow more sacred. It’s about understanding that feasting has absolutely nothing to do with vertical food and fancy squiggles on oversized plates. It’s not about seeing and being seen and dining at the spot of the moment, or being seated in the front room as opposed to Siberia. Poor Man’s Feast is not about eating as entertainment; it’s about what sustains us, even if that thing is a pile of cured pork products and a hunk of good cheese.
But I have to be practical, too: there will be some changes, and they will be noticeable. They will not be entirely unBittman-like in that there will be a lot more vegetalia showing up pretty much everywhere. (After all: what’s more parsimonious than a humble vegetable?) There will not, however, be Tofurky; there will be no turkey bacon because it’s a crime against humanity and I haven’t ever found a brand that didn’t taste like a bookmark. There will also not be the confited pork shoulder that sat for three days in my fridge in a container of dork (combination duck and pork) fat before I tossed it on the grill (thank you, Suzanne Goin). No worries there, doc. We will also not be making cassoulet this year the way we did last Christmas; we will therefore not be confiting our own duck. I am sure that I will at some point find a use for its rendered fat that is sitting in my freezer, however, but probably not for a little while.
So, has all the porky fun gone out of Poor Man’s Feast? No. But where there was too much fat, there will now be spice-laden flavor and seasonal freshness. Where there was deep pan-frying and dependence on fat for flavor, there will now be pressure and clay pot cooking. Where there was and always will be Julia Child there will now be Deborah Madison and Elizabeth David, Paula Wolfert and Yamuna Devi, Suvir Saran, David Tanis and Andrea Nguyen, and Judy Rodgers, all of whom take simple dishes with simple ingredients and elevate them to extraordinary. There will likely be a lot of layered flavor and a lot of whole grain bread baking, too, assuming I can manage to turn out something that weighs less than a construction brick. There will be the fresher, cleaner flavors that come with cooking seasonally, knowing where my food comes from, and not buying or eating it if I don’t. (Even in Connecticut, even in the dead of winter. So I’ll eat turnips and celeraic for a few months. Big deal.)
That said, we all know the price of locally-grown, ethically-produced, non-industrial food, and it is breathtaking; this is one of the greatest inequities we face. So where Poor Man’s Feast–which is now almost a year old–has focused, overtly or not, on what it means to eat well and parsimoniously, it will go one step further: it will talk about eating with care, and about making the tough decisions between a $12 pound of grass-fed stew meat that is free from chemicals and hormones and god knows what kind of bad karma, and twice that amount for $3.99 at the local supermarket. That’s the tough part because, even with the best of intentions, things almost always comes down to money, for most of us. What to do in that case? I’ll buy the good stuff, and eat less of it. My heart will thank me, I hope.
Onward to Christmas.



