comfort food

A Simple Bowl of Rags

(For Christina Choi, 1977-2011) My grandmother was the primary cook in my house when I was growing up, and much of what she made had a sort of Mitteleuropan bent to it: veal breast was stuffed with dried fruit, strudel was laden with cabbage, roast chicken was redolent of paprika, beef was braised with caraway […]

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Cooking from Insult to Injury

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We had talked about it for a long time: what would Susan want me to make for her last dinner at home prior to having the surgery on Long Island that would (hopefully) clear up her apnea, allow her to sleep, and put an end to my holding a mirror under her nose every morning […]

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